Looking Back To Paris In Tokyo Fashion Week(2)

As the cuts appeared at the thigh or in sharp pleats at the hip, sexuality was starkly elegant. But the designer always offers surprises. For this Spring/Summer 2018 collection it was colour – sky blue, sunshine yellow, olive green, mauve – all bunched together in folds of cloth blossoming like flowers. Followed by more cerebral tailored outfits – slim line but patterned with circles and waves – Yohji proved that his highly personal codes for women’s dress offer female freedom.

Sacai

Sacai by Chitose Abe, Spring/Summer 2019

Monica Feudi / InDigital.TV

“Hybrid” is the word automatically associated with designer Chitose Abe, ever since she started her fashion career by showing different front and back aspects of a single garment. That much-copied idea has led the designer on to diverse paths, most recently allowing a piece from each outfit to hang free, with a spare lace sleeve or an extension of one leg of shorts.

Sacai by Chitose Abe, Spring/Summer 2019

Monica Feudi / InDigital.TV

The effect was mostly ingenious, meaning that a piece of fabric would flow over like spilt milk or a skirt float away to the side. At its best, the idea of fabric shifting and shaping itself on the body goes back to the soul of Japanese fashion: the kimono. But Chitose Abe’s vision was much tougher for less graceful times, sending onto the runway military effects with angular plaids and checks. Yet when their patterns moved from geometry to floral, there was a return to a more feminine sweetness.

Sacai by Chitose Abe, Spring/Summer 2019

Monica Feudi / InDigital.TV

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