#SuzyPFW: Chloé’s Hippie Modernism; Paco Rabanne’s Minimal Metal
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For Spring/Summer 2019, Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne (left) and Natacha Ramsay-Levi at Chloé channelled the spirit of the label's founders while expressing their personal vision
Chloé: Relaxed looks for free spirits
Hippie
de luxe has had a long life – since its inception by Yves Saint Laurent
in the 1970s through endless fashion revivals. Casual glamour laced
with tribal totems has served fashion past and present.
So when
Chloé’s first look was floor rugs with rich, spicy, and deep-coloured
patterns, it signalled the show was following the Spring/Summer 2019
hippie trail.
Chloé Spring/Summer 2019
Kim Weston Arnold / InDigital.TV
But how to avoid the old clichés about that Seventies love-and-peace culture?
“I
love hippies – I think it’s a great counterculture,” said Chloe’s
Creative Director Natacha Ramsay-Levi. “It’s still inspiring today
because it’s for people who have free roots to a new zero – an idea
about how you can reinvent life; what your links to sensuality and
community are,” she explained.
Chloé Spring/Summer 2019
Kim Weston Arnold / InDigital.TV
“I think it’s still relevant and revolutionary,” the
designer continued. “I called the collection ‘Hippie Modernism’ because I
want to bring it into the city.”
Ramsay-Levi was defining her
lasting love of soft drapes, vivid mixed prints, hemlines short and
long, and tribal-style jewellery. Let’s make that Jewellery!, for multiple decoration included a version of all you might dream to find in a Moroccan souk.
Chloé Spring/Summer 2019
Luca Tombolini / InDigital.TV
The designer is creating a plausible image at Chloé,
with a French hippie look rather than the more carefree British version
promoted by the previous Chloé incumbent, English designer Clare Waight
Keller.
Natacha had nothing so new to say, but the show was
appealing, even desirable, in its use of colour and also the way silken
patterns were printed on freely floating fabrics. There were also white
materials that brought ease and freshness. And that load of jewellery?
Chloé Spring/Summer 2019
Ik Aidama / InDigital.TV
“It was about a woman thinking about nature, who has
souvenirs from summer time,” the designer said. “The jewellery is about
taking something that is poor and making it into what is uplifting and
sophisticated.”
Natacha – like so many female designers – seems to be modelling Chloé on her free and fearless self. And that looks just fine.
Paco Rabanne: Florals with light metallics