#SuzyPFW: Chloé’s Hippie Modernism; Paco Rabanne’s Minima(2)

When the first outfit appeared – with flowers printed on blouse and skirt and a small piece of leather in between – it defined the determination of Creative Director Julien Dossena to do Paco Rabanne his way.

Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2019

Yannis Viamos / InDigital.TV

Various designers have tried to give a different and softer face to the hard-edged brand from the 1960s. But Dossena is convincing because he keeps tinges of metal – in an inclusive way. So metal jewels might dangle on strings from the hips of a side-sliced skirt. Or the pattern might be just abstract coins on an apron top.

Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2019

Yannis Viamos / InDigital.TV

Many of these effects, like the apron, once referenced “Whacko Paco”, whose father was a butcher. But Dossena’s references were subtly made and never intrusive.

There were enough silvered finishes – on a trouser suit or a pair of metallic jeans seen only from the back of an open dress – to make the Paco reference credible. Yet at the same time, the current designer expressed himself.

Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2019

Yannis Viamos / InDigital.TV

The openness of the show – literally, in the case of a slit skirt and a cardigan showing the stomach – gave an up-to-date feel to a contemporary collection that kept a frisson of that chain-link, metallic Paco legend.

转载声明

本内容系VOGUE时尚网原创或经官方授权编译转载，严禁以任何形式或方法转载或使用，违者追究法律责任。

将本文分享到

本文相关品牌

本文相关单品